Gentleman

Gentleman

The Ultimate Companion to the Elegant Man
Language: English
Layout: more than 700 illustrations, four-color throughout, hardcover with jacket
Pages: 376
Size: 21,6 x 25,3 cm/10 x 8,5 inches

Price: 29,95 €
29,95 £
49,99 $


ISBN: 978-3-8480-0816-2
An elegantly dressed man does not only look smart and attractive, his appearance also implies confidence and respect. A self-confident demeanor, excellent manners, and carefully chosen quality garments are distinctive signs of a true gentleman. Paying tribute to the latest evolutions in fashion and social trends, this thoroughly revised edition of Bernhard Roetzel’s tried-and-tested guide is set for the man of the 21st century. How to dress for a certain occasion? Which accessories must a gentleman have in his wardrobe? Which shirt makers and tailors are synonymous for indisputable taste? The ultimate edition of this classic companion to the genuine gentlemen answers all these questions, and many more.

Our author Bernhard Roetzel talked with Gentleman’s Gazette about the art of being a gentleman:

Table of Contents

Foreword

The Gentleman’s Visiting Card

The Beard
Shaving at Home
At the Barber’s
A Good Wet Shave
The Electric Shaver
Different Men, Different Beards
Timeless Scents
The Perfumer’s ABC
Lorenzo Villoresi

The Hair
The Joys of Visiting the Hairdresser
What Should I Use for My Hair?
The Gentleman and His Pomade
Application
English Classics
The Right Way to Wash Hair
Hairstyles with Character
The Toupee: For and Against
The Fake Hair of the Stars
Chest Hair
The Royal Hairbrush
The Manicure

Underwear
The Most Important Question of All
Variations Underneath
A Fly-Away Success

The Shirt
A Gentleman’s Shirt
Good Shirts At A Glance
Collar Shapes
Cotton
Swiss Quality-Alumo
The Stuff Shirts Are Made Of
Folding a Shirt
Shirts with Soul
The Best English Shirtmakers
Chavet
How a Custom-Made Shirt is Created
Checks for the Weekend
The Brooks Brothers Shirt
The Right Shirt – the Right Fit
Washing and Ironing – the Fundamentals of Shirt Care

The Necktie
From Neckcloth to Ornamental Neckwear
Stars of the Stripes
A Good Necktie
Woolen Neckties
A Great Success from the Grande Nation
The Best of the Best
The Origins of Silk
Making a Necktie
The Business Necktie
The Four-In-Hand
How to Tie a Necktie
The Windsor Knot
The Bow Tie
Tying a Bow Tie
The Cravat

The Suit
Style in the Suit
Button Undone
The Mecca of the Custom-Made Suit
The English Suit
Patterns and Fabrics
A Suit from Gieves and Hawkes
The Art of the Viennese Taylor
Beckenstein Men’s Fabrics
The City Tailors
The King of Style
The Right Kind of Tweed Suit
The Italian Suit
Handmade Ready-To-Wear Clothing – an Italian Art
Brioni – Veni, Vidi, Vici
Kiton or the Vision of Ciro Paone
Exclusive to Kiton: the Fabrics
The Summer Suit
A. Caraceni – the Taylor to the Style Icons
Brooks Brothers

Smart Casual
The Sports Jacket
Needle and Thread
Tweed Plus
Attolini
Today’s Sports Jacket
An Eye for Detail
Fabrics for Trousers to Go with the Sports Jacket
The Gray Eminence
Khaki Couture
Shorts
The Right Sort of Jeans
The Cut
How Trousers Got Their Cuffs
The Waist Area
The Trousers in Detail
Other Lands, Other Trousers
All about Suspenders
The Right Belt
The Blazer – a Living Legend
Blazer and Trousers

Shoes
Good Shoes
John Lobb
Formal Shoes with Closed Lacing
Formal Shoes with open Lacing
Loafers
Rudolf Scheer & Söhne
Moccasins Italian Style
Monkstraps – the Shoes with Buckles
Other World for Weatherproof
Not All Leathers Are Equal
The Center of the Shoe World
The Shoemaker’s Tools
How a Shoe Takes Shape
The Other World for Cordovan
Suede Shoes
Chukka Boots
American Classics – Saddle Shoes
Slippers
The Royal Wellington Boot
Socks – Getting the Combination Right
Shoes and the Rest

Overcoats & Jackets
Overcoat Culture
Essential Overcoats
The Officer in the Gentleman
The Duffel Coat
The Story of the Waxed Jacket
The Barbour in Detail
The Top Six
Short Is All Right

The Hat
The Hat Past and Present
The Bowler
Courage to Wear Hats
Who Wears Hats?
The Panama

Accessories
Those Little Differences
The Everyday Ballast
One Has It – But Where?
What Does It Tell Us?
The Best Watches in the World
All About the Watch
Less Is More
Preface to Tobacco
The Cigarette
The Pipe
Classic Pipe Squad
The Manufacture
The Cigar
The Sizes
The Bar in the Pocket
The Cuff Link
Our Daily Companion
The Original
Traveling in Style
For the Short Trip
The Knack with the Jacket
The Right Way to Pack a Suitcase
The Walking Cane
The Lap Robe
No Fear of Rain
The Other World in Umbrellas
Glasses
Not Only When the Sun Shines
The Dress Handkerchief
From Hand to Beast Pocket
The Right Combination
Fine Handkerchiefs
The Glove
Scarf Refinement

Knitwear
In the Beginning Was the Sweater
From Sheep to Wool
Classic Knitwear
Between England and France
The Guernsey in Detail
From Fine to Chunky Knit
Correct Coordination
For Cold Winter Days
Pure Understatement: the Cashmere Sweater

Sporting Life
Why Sport?
Hunting, Riding, Fishing…
Shooting – the Outfit
James Purdey & Son: Country Look by the King of Gunsmiths
The Pocketknife
Riding – the Outfit
Spectating in Style
Fishing – the Outfit
Hole in One
The Crocodile
The Other Polo Shirt
Water Sports – the Outfit

Formal Dress
White or Black?
The Tuxedo – and What Goes with it
Black & White
White Tie
A Jacket for Smoking
The Custom Smoking Jacket
The Right Shoes
Morning Dress

Home Comfort
A Hint of Decadence
Breakfast with Style
A Souvenir from the Colonies
Home Comfort

Appendix
Looking after Your Wardrobe
The Suit
The Necktie
Shoes
Shoe Repair
Bull Polishing – the Army Method
Glossary
Index
Picture Credits
Acknowledgments

What the press says:

“Underwear, visiting cards, the hair, the necktie, the suit, shoes to name but a few, are interestingly explained with numerous examples and useful tips. All-embracing, illuminating and extremely stylish – this fascinating trip into the world of menswear is a must-have for all fashion aficionados.”
Review: Gentleman
boablog.net, June 14, 2016

“The author shows off his knowledge of his subject by not just making recommendations, but going deep into the origins and history of every item. […] It might not be the guide to up-to-the-minute fashions that will get you past picky bouncers at Berlin nightclubs, but it’s one that he claims will make you at home in a more refined milieu almost anywhere in the world.”
Review: Gentleman
The Local.de, April 21, 2016

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